Using modern strong mastics, sealants and grouts, it is very simple to install a ceramic tile. The idea behind the installation does not depend on the installation style or size.

Prior to the installation, you need to have some tools such as a hammer, a chalk line, a level, a sabre saw with carbide blade, rubber gloves, tile mastic, grout sealer, tiles, an edging cap, two outside corner edge caps for ceramic tile. A paint stir stick or an old toothbrush is also needed for use in forcing grout deep into the tile joints. You could also acquire a grooved trowel, tile nippers and cutter, and a squeegee rubber if you want.

Insure that the wall is smooth and there are no loose plaster, dust or a peeling paint hanging on it. Study the mastic instructions well; a primer could be used on a new plaster or unfinished drywall.

Here are some nine stages to take while installing ceramic tile:

First stage : Begin with the wall opposite the enlarged end of the tub i.e. the back wall. Use the level to draw a vertical line upwards as high as you want the tile to be starting from the outside edge of the tub. If one side differs from the other by more than 1/8 inch, then you should rearrange the starter row of tiles.

Draw a vertical line from the outside edge of the tub to show where the tiles end.

Second stage: Put the starter row of tiles along the top edge of the tub. Begin with an edge cap tile. Cut the tile next to the adjacent wall so that it can fit. Slightly adjust the run so that more than half the tile will be cut. Remove the tile.

Temporarily place the starter row to know the size of tile to cut off.

Third stage: Do not overspread the mastic along the wall of the tub. Just spread the quantity you can be able to cover with tiles within 30 minutes else, the mastic may harden up and become unusable.

Fourth stage: Position the first row of tiles. Press the tiles with a light rotating motion so that the mastic could spread, but never glide the tile around else the mastic would rise up into the grout line. Allow a 1/8-inch gap between the tub and the first row of tiles. You can get plastic tile spacers in any shop that sells tiles.

Fifth stage: Put the edge cap and first two tiles of the next row in position. After that, position the edge cap and the first tile of the third row in position. You would now get a pattern that resembles a stair.

Apply mastic and then place the tiles on it in a stair-like manner.

Sixth stage: Position the tiles in stair-like manner until all the rows of tiles are well positioned excluding the top row of cap tiles. Beginning from an outside corner cap, complete the work by putting the row of cap tiles along the top of the area already tiled.

Seventh stage: Using the same step-like pattern, position the tiles along the long wall. Begin this by temporarily placing a row along the top of the tub so that you could know the size of tile to cut off. As you previously did with the first wall, spread the mastic along the edge of the tub and install a row of tiles. Thereafter, position the next two rows of tiles to start a stair-like pattern. Continue with this pattern throughout the wall and finish the top with a row of cap tiles.

Eighth stage: The same laying method used in the other two walls is applied for the faucet wall. Cut the openings for the spout, faucets and shower arm using a sabre saw with a carbide blade. The openings must not necessarily be accurate, since the escutcheons will cover minor defects.

Ninth stage: Remove any excess mastic, clean the area and wash the laying tools. The mastic takes at least 24 hours to completely dry.

In the next section, we will discuss how to grout those.