Forbo said it is anticipating net sales of around $812 million for the first six months, approximately 8% lower than in the first half of 2008.

Exchange rates had a negative impact of about 4% on net sales development, while the acquisitions in 2008 made a gratifying contribution of about 10% to net sales development.

Forbo is also forecasting an operating profit (EBIT) of around $41.5 million due to the cost-cutting measures implemented since the third quarter of 2008 and the investments made in recent years to develop growth markets.

Barring further deterioration in the economic environment, Forbo expects net sales in the second half to be on a par with the first six months.

www.floordaily.net

Laminate likes temperatures from +18 to+25°C and relative humidity from 40 to 70%. High humidity makes laminate and the other wooden materials expand. Too dry air (for example, from air conditioners and warm floors) makes laminate shrink. That’s why, when home heating is switched on, it is recommended to use humidifiers (small fountains).

Dirt is dangerous

Laminate has a solid water-resistant surface, which is durable and wear-resistant. Dust doesn’t adhere to it and dirt can be easily removed. The dirt brought to the house from the street is dangerous, as it is easily trampled into the floor. It damages floor; sand and grit act as an abrasive paper leaving scratches. Therefore, try not to bring dirt inside the house, wiping thoroughly your feet outside a threshold. Put a big carpet in front of the entrance door.

Without polish and varnish

It is strictly prohibited to polish laminated floors with beeswax and polishing agents as they do not adhere to water-resistant coating do not penetrate into it and make unattractive spots. It is also no need to cover laminate with varnish.

It’s enough to sweep or vacuum the floor regularly. At wet cleaning wring out floor cloth thoroughly. Laminate is afraid of moisture. If you spoilt any liquid, wipe it immediately.

You can wipe laminate with a cloth treated by a special dip. Do it with a well-drained cloth in a lengthwise direction of panels. This way you will clean shoe, dressing, wax chalk and glue prints, remove adherent dirt and even traces from marker ink pens. But do go too far: laminate does not like chemicals! It is prohibited to use steam cleaners: under the influence of hot steam laminate unglues!

Repairing the floor

If, despite all safety measures, you damaged laminate, small scratches can be concealed with a help of wax pencil. Hide deep spallings with the help of a special paste of a suitable color or a filling-up for wood, adding into it a color of a necessary tone.

Our advice

It’s better to choose laminate of light colors; scratches are less visible on it.

On laminate with parquet like pattern in a staggered order, joints are not visible.

Laminate of 32 and 33 class, with10 mm thickness, is more suitable for home use.

Lock laminate is more preferable: it doesn’t need any glue it is easy to change.

Pay attention to wax-bearing butt ends of laminated panels, they will better join together.

Underlay is obligatory, sufficient thickness is 2 mm.

It’s better to choose skirting for laminate with a channel and rubber ends.

In some years, edges of laminate start to crumble – it’s the main disadvantage of laminate.

By the way

Life time of laminate can be prolonged if you glue felt glides on legs of tables, chairs, cupboards. It will help to avoid scratches. If you furniture has old- structured rolls with hard and sharp edges, then change them into modern soft rubber rolls.

Removing spots from laminate.

Rubber, heels, dirt from the street, cosmetic cream and color pencils - — -> Wipe off with a dry white nylon pad.

Fruits, milk, berries, beer, wine, lemonade — > Immediately wipe off with a well-absorbing cloth or, if spots are dry, with a cleaning agent for laminated coatings, after it wipe laminate with a dry cloth.

Blood —> Immediately wipe off with a wet cloth or, if spots are dry, with a dry white nylon pad.

Nail polish, shoe polish, lubricants, ink or marker ink pens, mascara, lipstick, carbon pape —> Wipe off with a cloth, soaked in solvent, for example, acetone, concentrated acetic acid, nail polish remover, universal solvents, but , try not to go outside the spot.

Chocolate, animal and vegetable fats—-> Remove with a help of a suitable cleaning agent for laminated floors.

installlaminateflooring.info

The eighth annual Home and Garden Show will be open again today from 2-4 p.m.

The event has brought in more than 80 vendors from all across the South. Tickets for the event are $5 for adults and free for children 12 and under.

Sharie Bates Elliott from Bates Precast, Inc. was informing visitors about SafePorch Storm Shelters on Saturday.

Built by Bates Precast Concrete, Inc. the concrete storm shelters can be used as a safe haven in bad weather or as storage units, Elliott said.

The family-owned and operated company started building the shelters more than 20 years ago.

“Its quite common in other states to have a concrete structure for safety,” Elliott said.

The Home and Garden Show is a great way for vendors to educate the public on their products. Many people are not even aware storm shelters can be purchased locally, she said.

The shelter can be placed in the ground, next to a person’s home, with the exposed part serving as a porch. The door to the shelter opens down, to keep a person from being trapped inside, Elliott said.

“They don’t rot or rust, they don’t deteriorate,” Elliott said.

The structures come in two sizes: four by six feet and seven feet deep and six by 12 feet and seven deep.

Though cooking gadgets and plants were in plentiful supply the show also has products that don’t fall into either category of home and garden.

L’Paige Lipstick distributor Marilyn Villar from Ponte Vedra Beach, Fla. said her product is only sold at events like the Home and Garden Show.

Villar and her partner touted the wonder of L’Paige Lipstick to several women at their booth. The company, based in Dallas, has been in business for 30 years.

When applied the lipstick can last four to six hours, Villar said and does not contain lead or aluminum.

Cathryn Gaddis of Valdosta enjoyed getting a peak at all the vendors. Events like the Home and Garden Show are an excellent way to network, she said.

The event lets the vendors meet face to face with the customer and explain the viability of their product, Gaddis said.

The Home Builders Association of South Georgia presents the Home and Garden Show every year.

By Johnna Pinholster

www.valdostadailytimes.com

Dec. 2-5 Showtime Fabric Market; High Point, NC; (336) 885-6842; www.itma-showtime.com

JANUARY

Jan. 8-16 Atlanta Intl. Gift & Home Furnishings Market; AmericasMart; Atlanta; (800) ATL-MART; americasmart.com

Jan. 9-12 Heimtextil; Frankfurt am Main; Frankfurt, Germany; heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

Jan. 12-15 Domotex; Hannover Fairgrounds; Hannover, Germany; (609) 987-1202; domotex.de

Jan. 14-20 IMM Cologne Intl. Furniture Fair; Cologne Exhibition Center; Cologne, Germany; (212) 974-8836; imm-cologne.de

Jan. 15-17 Direction -The International Textile Design Show; Penn Plaza Pavilion; New York; (973) 761-5598; directionshow.com

Jan. 15-21 L.A. Mart Gift & Home Furnishings Market; L.A. Mart; Los Angeles; (800) LAMART4; lamart.com

Jan. 16-22 Dallas Total Home & Gift Market; Dallas Market Center; Dallas; (800) DAL-MKTS; dallasmarketcenter.com

Jan. 17-20 Atlanta Intl. Area Rug Market; AmericasMart; Atlanta; (800) ATL-MART; americasmart.com

Jan. 17-23 The Chicago Market: Living and Giving; The Merchandise Mart; Chicago; (800) 677-MART; merchandisemart.com

Jan. 18-21 Intl. Home Show Macef; Fiera Milano Exhibition Center; Milan, Italy; 011-39-02-485501; macef.it/eng/

Jan. 18-21 California Gift Show; Los Angeles Convention Center; Los Angeles, (800) 272-SHOW; californiagiftshow.com

Jan. 24-28 Meuble Paris; Exhibition Centre Paris Le Bourget; (212) 957-0932; planete-meuble.com

Jan. 25-28 Toronto Intl. Gift Fair; Metro Toronto Convention Center; Toronto; (888) 823-7469; torontointernationalgiftfair.com

Jan. 25-29 Maison&Objet; Paris-Nord Villepinte Exhibition Centre; Paris; (212) 957-0932; masion-objet.com

Jan. 26-28 Orlando Gift Show; Orange County Convention Center; (678) 285-3976; orlandogiftshow.com

Jan. 26-29 San Francisco Intl. Gift Fair; Moscone Center; San Francisco; (800) 272-SHOW; sfigf.com

Jan. 28-Feb. 1 Las Vegas Market; World Market Center, Pavilions and MGM Grand; Las Vegas; (888) WMC-SHOW; lasvegasmarket.com

Jan. 30-Feb. 1 Surfaces; Sands Expo & Convention Center; Las Vegas; (972) 536-6323; surfaces.com

Jan. 31-Feb. 7 New York Market Week at the New York Intl. Gift Fair, 230 Fifth Ave. and 7 West New York; New York; nyhometextilesmarketweek.com

FEBRUARY

Feb. 2-5 Seattle Gift Show; Washington State Convention & Trade Center; (213) 362-5640; seattlegift.com

Feb. 3-7 Spring Fair Birmingham; National Exhibition Center; England; springfair.com

Feb. 8-12 Ambiente Intl.; Frankfurt am Main; Frankfurt, Germany; (770) 984-8016; ambiente.messefrankfurt.com

Feb. 11-15 New York Home Fashions Week; participating New York showrooms; (212) 297-2122

Feb. 17-20 Alberta Gift Show; Northlands; Edmonton, Alberta; (888) 823-7469; albertagiftshow.com

Feb. 20-24 Tupelo Furniture Market; (662) 842-4442; tupelofurnituremarket.com

MARCH

March 2-5 Montreal Gift Show; Place Bonaventure; Montreal, Quebec; (888)823-7469; montrealgiftshow.com

March 6-9 Architectural Digest Home Design Show; Pier 94; New York;
(800) 677-6278; merchandisemart.com

March 8-10 Atlanta Intl. Fine Linen and Home Textiles Market; AmericasMart; Atlanta; (800) ATL-MART; americasmart.com

March 8-10 Atlanta Spring Gift, Home Furnishings and Holiday Market; AmericasMart; Atlanta; (800) ATL-MART; americasmart.com

March 9-11 Vancouver Gift Show; BC Place Stadium; Vancouver, B.C.; (888) 823-7469; vancouvergiftshow.com

March 11-13 Domotex Asia/China Floor; Shanghai New International Expo Center; Shanghai; 011-86-21-62-4776-68804; domotex.de

March 16-18 Intl. Home & Housewares Show; McCormick Place; Chicago; (847) 292-4200; housewares.org

APRIL

April 5-8 Boston Gift Show; Boston Convention & Exhibition Center; (800) 272-SHOWS; bostongiftshow.com

April 7-13 Intl. Home Furnishings Market; Intl. Home Furnishings Center (IHFC), Market Square, Showplace! (and other market buildings); High Point, NC; (336) 869-1000; www.highpointmarket.org; ihfc.com; merchandisemart.com; showplace-highpoint.com

April 15-16 Direction—The Intl. Textile Design Show; Penn Plaza Pavilion; New York; (973) 761-5598; directionshow.com

April 29-May 2 Coverings; Orange County Convention Center; Orlando, FL; (866) 285-3691; coverings.com

First stage: Put on your rubber gloves. Mix the grout until it is creamy in nature. Make the tiles wet so that they will not remove moisture from the grout. Spread the grout evenly over half of the surface to be tiled. Force the grout inside the areas between the tiles using the squeegee rubber. Use a wet sponge to clean off the excess.

Spread grout evenly over the surface using a squeegee rubber
to force the grout inside the areas between the tiles.

Second stage: Force the grout deep into the tile joints using a blunt stick. Clean up the excess grout with a sponge and repeat the same procedures for the remaining area.

Force the grout into the tile joints using the end of a toothbrush.

Third stage: The grout should be left to dry for at least 24 hours. Polish the thin film of grout that has dried up on the tile. Apply a bead of tub caulk around the 1/8-inch gap between the tub and the first row of tiles. Also caulk the window carefully if you have tiled around it.

Apply a bead of tub caulk between the tub and first row of tiles.

Fourth stage: After caulking, apply a grout sealer according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

You can now be able to install ceramic tile in a bathroom having read the instructions in this article.

©Publications International, Ltd.

Prior to the installation, you need to have some tools such as a hammer, a chalk line, a level, a sabre saw with carbide blade, rubber gloves, tile mastic, grout sealer, tiles, an edging cap, two outside corner edge caps for ceramic tile. A paint stir stick or an old toothbrush is also needed for use in forcing grout deep into the tile joints. You could also acquire a grooved trowel, tile nippers and cutter, and a squeegee rubber if you want.

Insure that the wall is smooth and there are no loose plaster, dust or a peeling paint hanging on it. Study the mastic instructions well; a primer could be used on a new plaster or unfinished drywall.

Here are some nine stages to take while installing ceramic tile:

First stage : Begin with the wall opposite the enlarged end of the tub i.e. the back wall. Use the level to draw a vertical line upwards as high as you want the tile to be starting from the outside edge of the tub. If one side differs from the other by more than 1/8 inch, then you should rearrange the starter row of tiles.

Draw a vertical line from the outside edge of the tub to show where the tiles end.

Second stage: Put the starter row of tiles along the top edge of the tub. Begin with an edge cap tile. Cut the tile next to the adjacent wall so that it can fit. Slightly adjust the run so that more than half the tile will be cut. Remove the tile.

Temporarily place the starter row to know the size of tile to cut off.

Third stage: Do not overspread the mastic along the wall of the tub. Just spread the quantity you can be able to cover with tiles within 30 minutes else, the mastic may harden up and become unusable.

Fourth stage: Position the first row of tiles. Press the tiles with a light rotating motion so that the mastic could spread, but never glide the tile around else the mastic would rise up into the grout line. Allow a 1/8-inch gap between the tub and the first row of tiles. You can get plastic tile spacers in any shop that sells tiles.

Fifth stage: Put the edge cap and first two tiles of the next row in position. After that, position the edge cap and the first tile of the third row in position. You would now get a pattern that resembles a stair.

Apply mastic and then place the tiles on it in a stair-like manner.

Sixth stage: Position the tiles in stair-like manner until all the rows of tiles are well positioned excluding the top row of cap tiles. Beginning from an outside corner cap, complete the work by putting the row of cap tiles along the top of the area already tiled.

Seventh stage: Using the same step-like pattern, position the tiles along the long wall. Begin this by temporarily placing a row along the top of the tub so that you could know the size of tile to cut off. As you previously did with the first wall, spread the mastic along the edge of the tub and install a row of tiles. Thereafter, position the next two rows of tiles to start a stair-like pattern. Continue with this pattern throughout the wall and finish the top with a row of cap tiles.

Eighth stage: The same laying method used in the other two walls is applied for the faucet wall. Cut the openings for the spout, faucets and shower arm using a sabre saw with a carbide blade. The openings must not necessarily be accurate, since the escutcheons will cover minor defects.

Ninth stage: Remove any excess mastic, clean the area and wash the laying tools. The mastic takes at least 24 hours to completely dry.

In the next section, we will discuss how to grout those.

Together with inventor Fredrick Thomas Palmer, Fredrick Walton went on to invent Anaglypta and Lincrusta. Anaglypta and Lincrusta are two forms of Victorian-era embossed home wall coverings. Lincrusta is made of a linseed oil mixture and Anaglypta is made from cotton pulp.

Linoleum was made famous by Scottish flooring manufacturer Michael Nairn, who introduced the inlaid patterning that linoleum is best known for.

Linoleum was later replaced in popularity by the vinyl floor coverings of the 1960s. However, it is now making a comeback.

Origin of Name

The name linoleum comes from the Latin word linum, which means flax, and the Latin word oleum, which means oil.

How it is Made

Linoleum is made of linseed oil, pigments, pine rosin and pine flour. Linoleum is manufactured by oxidizing linseed oil and adding the other ingredients to form a thick mixture called linoleum cement. According to the Columbia University Press, “linseed oil is exposed to the air in a succession of thin films until it is of a rubbery consistency, or it is thickened by heating until it becomes a spongy mass, after which it is ground, mixed with pulverized wood and other ingredients, and then applied to the foundation and rolled smooth. The final process is a thorough seasoning in drying rooms.”

About.com

What Is a Floating Laminate Floor?

Laminate floorboards are made of densely pressed wood fiberboard, topped with a layer of paper or other material that looks exactly like wood, then covered with a durable coating that protects the look and gives it its durability. It’s often generically (and mistakenly) called Pergo flooring, but that’s only the trademark name of the company that pioneered the laminate-floor product.

Before You Install a Floating Laminate Floor

You will need to purchase both laminate floorboard and foam underlayment, which acts as a cushion for the flooring, giving it resiliency and dampening sound. To determine how much laminate flooring and foam underlayment you’ll need to buy, multiply the length of the room by the width. That’s your square footage. Each box of laminate flooring is labeled to tell you how many square feet it will cover.

Buy 20% more than you need, so if your room is 400 square feet, buy 480 square feet. The extra flooring will cover any miscalculations or mistakes. To trim the flooring pieces, use a handsaw or carbide-tipped blade, and cut into the good side of the flooring so that any tearout or splintering won’t mar the face of the board.

Because they have interlocking tongues and grooves, most laminates don’t require glue. If there’s any chance of water or dampness, such as in a mudroom, entryway or kitchen, run a light bead of waterproof wood glue along each tongue before mating it to the groove.

What You’ll Need to Install a Floating Laminate Floor

• Laminate flooring
• Foam underlayment (sold in rolls, usually 36 to 42 inches wide)
• Six-mill plastic sheeting if installing over concrete (sold in rolls, usually 10 feet wide)
• Duct tape
• Installation kit: pull bar, tapping block, spacers
• Rubber mallet
• Handsaw or a carbide-tipped blade installed on a power saw
• Flush-cut saw for undercutting doorjambs
• Threshold
• Waterproof glue (optional unless installing in an area that may get wet)
• Knee pads for comfort

How to Install a Floating Laminate Floor

1. Carefully remove and set aside the baseboards.
2. Lay a piece of the new underlayment and flooring next to the doorjamb. Draw a line at the height of the new flooring and undercut the jamb to allow the new underlayment and flooring to slide underneath.
3. Sweep the existing floor carefully.
4. Measure the length of the room, then divide by the length (usually 36 inches) of the boards. If the result is more than eight inches, start laying boards. If it’s less than eight inches, trim the corresponding length from the left-hand (starting) edge of the first board to avoid a too-short board at the end. The first and last boards in each row should be at least eight inches for visual appeal.
5. Prepare to lay the last row of flooring, measuring carefully. You’ll likely need to trim the board to fit, as the remaining space may be narrower than the width of an uncut board.
6. If you’re installing laminate over a concrete floor, you’ll need a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from damaging the underside of your new flooring. Choose a foam underlayment that’s also labeled as a vapor barrier, or put regular foam underlayment on top of six-mill plastic sheeting. Plastic sheeting is sold in 10-foot widths and rolls of 25-foot increments, generally at about $1 per linear foot (a five-foot roll will cost around $25). Roll out the plastic sheeting and butt the edges together, duct-taping all the seams.
7. Roll out foam underlayment, butting the edges together and joining with duct tape.
8. Beginning at the left side of the room, install the first board with the tongue side to the wall. Leave a ¼- to ½-inch expansion space between the walls and the flooring around the perimeter of the room. This will allow the flooring to expand and contract with changes in humidity. Place spacers from the installation kit between the first row and the wall to keep the space uniform.
9. Install the rest of the first row, using spacers to keep the boards away from the wall; with the tapping block and mallet, tap each board into the end of the previous board for a gap-free fit.
10. For all subsequent rows, stagger the boards so the end seams don’t line up. For example, if you began the previous row with a whole board, start with half a board so the end seams are staggered. With the first board of the next row tipped upwards about 45 degrees, engage the tongue with the groove of the boards in the previous row. Lower it gently, keeping it engaged, and press flat to the underlayment. Tap the boards back to the left as you progress to the right.
11. Use the pull bar and mallet to tap the rows snugly together. When you reach the last row, measure each board for width as you go - rooms are rarely perfectly square, so you may have to custom-cut each board to fit. Remember to maintain the ¼ - to ½-inch gap, using spacers.
12. Reinstall the baseboards; they should be fastened only to the wall, not to the flooring, with construction adhesive or finish nails. This allows the floor to expand and contract with changes in humidity.
13. Allow the floor to settle for at least 24 hours, especially if you’ve used glue.

Tips

• Keep the leftovers in case you need to make a repair.
• The easiest way to make detailed cuts for pipes and other obstructions is with a handheld rotary tool, such as a Dremel, with a cutting bit installed.
• Pull boards from several boxes at once to mix and hide any color variations.

How to Install Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring has become the floor of choice for many homeowners in the past several years. There are many good reasons for this. Notably, it needs very little maintenance (unlike carpet), it is incredibly durable, and it comes in a vast array of colors/styles. Since being introduced to the US back in 1982, laminate flooring sales has seen a growth of up to twenty per cent per year. This article is a step by step guide on how to install laminate flooring in your home.

Installing laminate flooring is much easier than installing hardwood floors.

The tools and materials you will need for this project are:

Preparing the Floor

If you’ve got another type of flooring, this is the time to get rid of it. Pull up your old carpet and padding. Remove all of the tack strips around the room’s perimeter. You may need to scrape the floor to get rid of any padding sticking to it. Vacuum it well. If there are any noticeable dips, level them out. On a concrete slab, thinset may be skimmed on it.

Repair plywood subflooring if applicable.

Remove the baseboards. You may be able to save these if you are careful. Now use the coping saw to cut off the bottoms of door jambs, case openings, etc. This will probably be 1/4” to 3/8” dependent on the combined thickness of the laminate and underlayment pad. It is recommended to buy the thicker pad; it is well worth the added expense.

In order to know how much laminate flooring and underlayment pad to buy you will need the square footage. To get this simply measure the area’s footage right to left and then forward and back. Multiply those figures together and that is your square footage. It is prudent to add at least 5% to that figure for scraps.

Install your laminate flooring

The first thing to do is roll out the underlayment pad. Connect the pieces together with wide, clear, plastic tape. How your laminate planks connect depends on the brand you buy but they are all rather simple; most simply snap together. Remember to stagger the joints.

Laminate flooring is a type of “floating floor”, meaning that it is all connected to itself but not to the house. With this in mind, leave 1/4” clearance at each wall. On the initial wall where you start, use spacers that you can pull out before installing the baseboards.

As you go along you will need to use your mallet and pull bar to snug things up. A few gentle taps will do.

Things will get tricky as you go through doorways; the manufacturer’s instructions most likely will not tell you about this because it impedes sales to DIY’ers. In some circumstances the best solution is to use your utility knife to trim the snapping connections on the adjoining planks so that they can slide together. In this case, use a few drops of wood glue to keep them together.

Finishing up - Install the Baseboards

Once you’re done with installing the laminate flooring planks you can get on your baseboards. If you’ve been careful with the removal you can reuse them. Otherwise, cut and install new baseboards. Miter and caulk all joints. Remember not to nail into the planks – this is a floating floor. If you find you have cut some planks too short and the baseboard doesn’t cover adequately, don’t fret; just install quarter-round at the floor line.

Make sure to understand how to care for laminate flooring. Now that you’re done, step back and admire your work!

The copyright of the article How to Install Laminate Flooring in Home Flooring (www.home-flooring.suite101.com) is owned by Kelly Smith.

“Laminates are probably the most exciting change the flooring industry has seen in the last decade,” said Tom Kraeutler, who is a host of The Money Pit, a radio show, and with his co-host, Leslie Segrete, author of “My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure” (Globe Pequot Press, 2008).

Bill Dearing, president of the North American Laminate Flooring Association in Washington, said laminates account for 18 to 21 percent of the retail flooring market for residential remodeling. And since 1993, he said, sales of laminates have increased by more than 10 percent nearly every year.

Mr. Kraeutler explained that earlier versions of laminate flooring were difficult to install because as each strip of flooring was laid, the tongue and groove connection required gluing and clamping of the joints.

Laminate flooring available now, he said, is much easier to use. Glue is no longer needed as the adjoining boards snap into place, and it is also more visually appealing, with hundreds of patterns to choose from. “A laminate floor can look like any kind of wood, stone, tile, vinyl, or just about any other flooring material available,” he said. Paul Murfin, vice president of sales for Armstrong Floor Products in Lancaster, Pa., said the flooring can be anywhere from 7 to 12 millimeters thick and can have a smooth or textured finish. With laminate that looks like stone, the surface can have a stone-like texture; laminate that looks like wood could have a raised grain. Early laminates had a tendency to produce a hollow “clippity-clop” sound when walked on with shoes. Newer laminates, particularly thicker ones, eliminate that sound. In addition, Mr. Murfin said, laminates are free-floating surfaces. They are not glued to the subfloor but rest on foam.

Amberlee Virgili, a customer service representative for FloorOne.com, an online retailer of laminate flooring products, said her company sells about 16 brands of laminate flooring, with prices from less than $1 a square foot to about $5 a square foot.

Bob Middleton, technical and installation manager at Lumber Liquidators, a nationwide retailer of flooring products based in Toano, Va., said consumers should look at a product’s warranty. Laminate floors can carry warranties of 10, 20 or 30 years, he said.

Mr. Dearing of Nalfa said, “The best thing to do is to try to look at a display floor.” That is particularly helpful, he added, when a homeowner is considering a laminate floor with a textured finish. Another thing a homeowner can do is visit the organization’s Web site at www.nalfa.orgcom. The organization has established a set of voluntary standards for laminate manufacturers. Manufacturers then submit their products to the organization and can obtain a certificate, usually depicted on the packaging, that indicates that the product in the box meets Nalfa standards.

One final question that many homeowners may ask is whether laminates are right for do-it-yourselfers.

“Absolutely,” said Bob Markovich, home and yard editor for Consumer Reports in Yonkers. Mr. Markovich said his organization tested and reviewed 41 flooring products for its August issue, including a large number of laminates. “If you’re looking for flooring that’s reasonably priced, tough and realistic-looking, and you want to install it yourself, laminates are the way to go,” he said.

JAY ROMANO
A version of this article appeared in print on August 7, 2008, on page F2 of the New York edition